Turismo Miño
The English Way to Compostela
Both routes converge at Bruma, near Mesón do Vento, to continue hand in hand to the Galician capital.
The Coruña branch is the least frequented, due to the total distance, less than the minimum 100 km. required by the Santiago Cathedral chapter to obtain the Compostela.
As this is one of the shortest of the Caminos de Santiago, there is a third option that is more common each year: the one that, starting from Ferrol, on reaching Bruma, goes by bus to Coruña, from where, again passing through Bruma, it goes to the cathedral.
Origin and evolution of this route
The origin of this Jacobean route can be found in the maritime routes used from the middle of the 12th century, in Medieval Europe, by pilgrims from the North. In the High and Low Middle Ages, not only the English opted for this route, but it was also sailed from the Scandinavian countries, the Netherlands, Brittany, Ireland and Scotland for the most part.
They arrived at the most strategic ports such as Ribadeo, Viveiro, Ferrol, Neda, Pontedeume or Coruña (El Parrote or El Burgo), from where they made the pilgrimage to Santiago.
These pilgrims shared the logistics of the trade routes with the mainland, where the ships, in addition to provisions and goods, also transported pilgrims, making it a commercial and passenger route. The first documented licence for the transport of English pilgrims by sea dates from 1235.
In the first centuries of the Jacobean phenomenon, those who decided to make the pilgrimage to Santiago from the North first had to cross the North Sea, the English Channel or the Bay of Biscay, to continue the very long route through the lands of Navarra, Castilla or Galicia, in a hazardous and risky journey.
They would sail to the ports of Ribadeo, Viveiro, Ferrol or Coruña, from where they would begin the route to the cathedral of Compostela. The strategic location of these points boosted the route. Venturing on this nautical journey, with all its risks, reduced the pilgrimage to about three weeks, compared to the nearly five months it took to cross France and the demanding Pyrenees, along routes with an abundance of thieves.
This boom from the 12th to the 15th century was a prosperous source of income for the Royal Treasury and the Cathedral Chapter, which benefited from the customs duties imposed on the ships.
Some 300 years after the Inventio or discovery of the tomb of St James in the 9th century, the pilgrimage became a social phenomenon to which the Anglo-Saxons were no strangers. At this time, St. James became the third great pilgrimage route, comparable to those to Rome and the Holy Land.
In 1122 Pope Callistus II granted Compostela the celebration of Jubilee Years in perpetuum, in which pilgrims would obtain plenary indulgence before the Apostle, a real attraction for believers from all over the world.
On the other hand, in the late Middle Ages, the continuous clashes between France and England made the sea route safer than the land route. With the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), passage through France was forbidden to the English.
The clash of the King of England Henry VII (1509-1547) with the Pope over his divorce from Catherine of Aragon was the origin of the Church of England, Anglicanism and the Protestant Reformation. Henry VII banned pilgrimages to Santiago, and Martin Luther, who considered the pilgrimage blasphemous, triumphed in European Protestant currents.
The wars between Spain and the United Kingdom between 1585 and 1604 provoked attacks on the coastal population by the corsair Francis Drake, and the disaster of the Invincible Armada (1588) did not improve the situation.
This context condemned the route to ostracism for centuries. It was not until the 20th century that the English Route recovered its transit.
The maritime route has been lost, although some ferry connections from the United Kingdom to the ports of Bilbao and Santander, now located on the Northern Way, have been preserved.
All pilgrims, of whatever origin and condition, have had the protection of monasteries or hospitals founded by religious orders. The Sancti Spiritus Hospitaller Order was established on the English Way.
A route with abundant documented pilgrimages.
In 1147 a squadron of English, German and Flemish soldiers visited the Basilica and the city of Santiago. On their way to the Holy Land they stopped in Lisbon, helping the first king of Portugal to liberate the city, which in 1255 became the country's capital.
Women pilgrims to Santiago have also left a deep mark on the road. This is the case of Margery Kempe, who arrived to Compostela in 1417. She left Bristol to reach Galicia by boat. It seems that she is the only female pilgrim from the Middle Ages who is recorded in a book considered to be the first autobiography in the English language.
The Icelandic monk Nicholas Bergsson leaves us a written description of his journey, between 1154 and 1159, from Iceland to Rome via Santiago.
Records show that in 1424 more than 3,000 pilgrims embarked in A Coruña.
The most distinguished pilgrims frequently made offerings to Santiago at the end of their journey. This is the case of the clergyman John Goodyear, a pilgrim in the Jacobean year of 1456, who donated a portable alabaster altarpiece with five scenes from the life of Saint James. It can be seen in the Cathedral museum.
The great traveller William Wey recounted in 1456, after four days of sailing between Plymouth and Coruña, his encounter in the bay with 84 ships at anchor, 37 of them flying the English flag. He found the harbour full of people from England, Wales, Ireland, Normandy, Brittany and elsewhere.
Another testimony to the British pilgrimages are the pieces of English pottery from the 14th and 15th centuries found in the excavations of the Cathedral.
Characteristics of the Way
The English Way is one of the lesser-known routes, which gives us a green Galicia through which we can reach Compostela in less than a week.
These lands hide in every corner vestiges of the past, dotted with castros (forts), medieval bridges, or remains of Romanisation. It has a rich cultural, historical and scenic variety in which the walker feels part of an exceptional environment, resulting in a unique experience.
The route allows you to enjoy the enchantment of its landscapes, with the mysticism of solitude, following in the footsteps of those who walked it years ago.
The attraction of this route lies in its variety of landscapes and the tranquillity of its route, especially if you do it outside the busiest season.
With a strong coastal character, it runs along stretches parallel to the sea and enters green landscapes with leafy forests. It slips between rural areas and inland villages. It is a path with little traffic, ideal for travellers with a solitary soul who wish to enjoy the route anonymously.
The pilgrim can organise it in three stages from A Coruña and five from Ferrol, in a very little crowded way.
It is accessible at any time of the year, although the Atlantic fronts mean that rain can be more present in certain seasons.
It combines the maritime landscapes of the estuaries of Ferrol, Ares and Betanzos, with stretches through rural territory, with scattered solitary towns and small villages dedicated to livestock and agriculture.
The route is a relevant element when it comes to promoting the heritage of the area and its attractive scenery. Some stretches of the route have recovered old royal roads, although the predominant surface is asphalt.
It crosses four important historic centres: The peninsular city of A Coruña, Ferrol with its illustrated and modernist design, Pontedeume under the tutelage of the Andrade family, and Betanzos with its medieval quarter and the pastime park now in the process of restoration. It is worth the detour to the Belelle waterfall, the Fragas do Eume Natural Park with the monastery of Caaaveiro, a paradise for hikers, photographers and nature lovers.
It is the shortest of the Caminos in the Iberian Peninsula, covering only one autonomous region, Galicia, and passing through only one province, A Coruña, making it an exceptional route.
The division of Galicia can be somewhat confusing for visitors. The municipalities are called concellos, which are divided into parishes, made up of places. For example, one of the Xunta's public hostels is in Hospital, parish of Bruma, concello de Mesía. Presedo belongs to the concello of Abegondo and Sigüeiro belongs to the concello of Oroso. This connection is not always clear.
Route of the Way in Miño.
The route of the route through the municipality of Miño is approximately 10 km long.
It enters Miño through Buiña, with its fountain, washing place and a small recreational area. It passes through the wooded area parallel to one of the phases of the Costa Miño housing development.
It runs along the golf course and crosses the bridge over the motorway. On passing Viadeiro we find the beautiful medieval bridge of Ponte Baxoi, which, thanks to the Life Water Way project, offers pilgrims drinking water.
After crossing under the motorway again, we enter the spectacular marshes of the river Baxoi, one of the jewels of the Biosphere Reserve Marismas Coruñesas e Terras do Mandeo.
From here we enter the urban area of Miño along Regueiro street. When we reach the Rabazal tracks we have another drinking water point which gives its name to the rúa fonte.
Calle Real is the closest point to the different services offered by this town. From here we head towards the exit of the village, which runs parallel to the railway line. Before crossing the track we can enjoy the views from the viewpoint of A Barrosa over the estuary. We continue along Rúa da Alameda, next to the Etcheverría private manor house, to reach the picturesque corner of Ponte do Porco.
In this small corner of the municipality we can see the river Lambre flowing into the sea, parallel to the Alameda beach with its small estuary. If we walk along its sandy promenade, we can contemplate one of the oldest eucalyptus trees in Galicia.
In the centre of Ponte do Porco stands the Andrade Monument, which has just celebrated its first centenary. On the nearby bridge of Ponte do Porco is the legend of the brave Roxin Roxal and his beloved Tareixa.
The route now continues parallel to the river Lambre, until it crosses the medieval bridge of Lambre, which now belongs to the municipality of Paderne. This river, like so many others, acts as a natural border between the two entities.
Here the pilgrims leave the municipality of Miño to continue their journey towards Compostela.
Good Camino!
Useia and Utreia
Ponte Baxoi
Fray Martín Sarmiento cites on his trip to Galicia in 1745, the parish of Santa María de Miño along with this bridge on his route to Ferrol.
How to get there
Monument Ponte do Porco
In the gardens there is a curious monument in honor of Fernán Pérez de Andrade, it is a cross on a boar that symbolizes the triumph of good over evil. There is a beautiful legend that says that on this bridge, Roxín Roxal slit the throat of the boar that killed his beloved Tareixa.
How to get there
Baxoi river marshes
It is home to numerous species that use the marshes to nest or replenish forces during migratory movements. So it is common to see different types of birds in this natural space.
How to get there
Hostel of Pilgrims
Grey herons, egrets, cormorants, and ducks are among the regular visitors to this wetland. During the migratory transit periods, mainly spring and autumn, various marine and aquatic birds arrive at our coasts from the north of Europe, giving us the opportunity to make interesting observations. A whole world to discover just a stone's throw from our accommodation.
The location of the hostel invites us to visit the nearby Playa Grande de Miño and its dune system. The town center is just a few minutes walk away, where you can easily find all kinds of services.
Inaugurated in 1999, these facilities belong to the public network of hostels of the Xunta de Galicia. This modern and welcoming accommodation is open all year round, including holidays. With an uninterrupted schedule from 13 h. to 22 h., it is for the exclusive use of pilgrims with credentials. Admission is on a first-come, first-served basis, and reservations are not accepted.
The fee is €8, which must be paid in cash. It offers free wifi connection in the common areas. There is no cafeteria or self-service machines among its services. Only guide dogs are allowed, and there is a shelter for bicycles.
The hostel has a capacity of 22 beds. The upper floor has two rooms, each with 10 beds. Two common toilets with showers complete this distribution.
On the ground floor, there is a kitchen for free use (with a microwave but without kitchenware), a common dining room, two bathrooms (without a shower), and a place accessible for people with reduced mobility.
At the entrance on the left is the laundry room, which has several individual basins for manual laundry and a small laundry line, as well as a washing machine and tumble dryer for a fee. To the right is the reception to welcome visitors.
It has an outdoor garden area with a small bench for the use and enjoyment of pilgrims.
The address is:
Public Pilgrims' Hostel of Miño
Rúa as marismas s/n
15630 Miño (A Coruña)
Telephone 689233678.
www.caminodesantiago.gal
Coordinates:
42º 21' 01.7" N
8ª 12’ 30.1” W
From here we can walk along the sandy area of playa Grande, approach playa A Ribeira, and link up with the Senda dos Sentidos that leads to Ponte do Porco, and its legend of Roxín Roxal, already on the English Way.
